Cookbooks, Moroccan recipes and the promise of winter sun

Hi all – chef Scott here again!

It’s been a bumper year for cookbook releases but given my current house ban on incoming hardbacks, I have turned to ebooks to bolster my collection.  Among recent additions – from Matthew Ryle and Nathan Outlaw to Ben Lippett and Ixta Belfrage – the book I find myself opening today is Nargisse Benkabbou’s Madaq.

Meaning “flavour” in Moroccan Arabic, Madaq offers a modern take on the cuisine.  It is as a testament to the interplay of cultures, trade routes, and ancient dynasties that have shaped the country, all while nodding to more recent global trends.

Just three-and-a-half hours away, Marrakech will bask in golden winter sunshine throughout our cold, wet, and dark months.  The city moves effortlessly between two worlds: the historic Medina, with its ancient alleyways, calls to prayer, and open-air spice stalls; and just minutes away in Guéliz, sleek modern rooftop bars, contemporary art galleries, and boutique shopping offering bohemian luxury.

The city’s culinary scene reflects this balance.  Tagines and tangias are now served alongside fresh, delicate salads and slow cooked meats in tacos.  The warm aromatics of earthy cumin, fragrant orange blossom, golden turmeric, and punchy preserved lemons remain the backbone of most dishes, yet there is also plenty of modern influence to delight and surprise.

To bring a taste of this sun-drenched sanctuary into your own kitchen, here are three standout recipes adapted directly from Madaq…

“Sticky and orange and turmeric chicken skewers, harissa roasted carrots and a bitter leaf salad.”

Recipe: Sticky Orange & Turmeric Chicken Skewers

Ingredients (Marinade):

• 5 tbsp (75ml) olive oil,
• 3 garlic cloves (minced),
• zest of 2 oranges,
• 60ml fresh orange juice,
• 1 tbsp honey,
• 1 tbsp dried mint,
• 1½ tsp ground turmeric,
• ¾ tsp fine sea salt.

Ingredients (Chicken):

• 450g skinless, boneless chicken thighs or breasts (cut into 2.5cm chunks),
• 1 tbsp honey.

Method:

1. Stir marinade ingredients together in a bowl.
2. Combine half the marinade with the chicken chunks; cover and marinate for 15 minutes (or up to 24 hours in the fridge).
3. Thread chicken onto soaked bamboo or metal skewers.
4. Griddle or barbecue skewers over medium-high heat for 5 – 7 minutes per side until cooked through.

Recipe: Harissa Roasted Carrots with Olive, Preserved Lemon & Coriander Salsa (Serves 4)

Ingredients (Carrots):

• 450g baby carrots (or just use normal carrots halved lengthways & cut into 7.5cm pieces),
• 3 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp honey, 1–2 tbsp harissa, 3 garlic cloves (minced),
• 1 tbsp tomato purée,
• 1 tbsp water,
• 1 tsp ground cumin,
• 1 tsp sweet paprika,
• ½ tsp fine sea salt.
• 65g roasted almonds,
• 360g Greek yogurt mixed with ½ tsp fine sea salt,
• Nigella seeds and rapeseed oil to garnish.

Ingredients (Salsa – Makes 140g):

• 45g pitted green or purple olives (finely chopped),
• 4 tbsp (60ml) olive oil,
• 1–2 tbsp finely chopped preserved lemons,
• 3 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves & tender stems,
• fine sea salt to taste.

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 200°C fan (220°C).
2. Whisk 3 tbsp olive oil, honey, harissa, garlic, tomato purée, water, cumin, paprika, and salt in a bowl, then toss the carrots to coat.
3. Spread carrots on a baking sheet, cover with foil, and roast for 20 minutes.
4. Remove foil and roast for another 10 minutes until caramelized and browned in spots.
5. To serve, spread seasoned yogurt onto a platter and dress with rapeseed oil and nigella seeds, arrange warm carrots on top, scatter over the olive salsa & toasted almond topping, and drizzle with extra olive oil.

Recipe: Orange, Black Olive & Bitterleaf Salad

Ingredients:

• 3 or 4 small juicy oranges (peeled and segmented),
• 2 head of red chicory(leaves torn),
• 1 baby gem lettuce,
• 75g black olives,
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil,
• 1 tbsp orange blossom water (optional),
• pinch of ground cumin, fine sea salt, and cracked black pepper.

Method:

1. Layer the bitter radicchio leaves on a wide serving platter.
2. Top with sweet orange slices and scatter over the black olives.
3. Whisk the olive oil, orange blossom water, cumin, salt, and pepper together, then drizzle generously over the salad just before serving.

Chef Notes & Tips:

1. You really don’t need to make skewers here, just marinade some whole thighs/legs or strips of breast and pop them under the grill or even just roast at a high temp in the oven but adjust cooking times accordingly.
2. Don’t worry too much about getting ingredients like Orange Blossom.  It’s not essential but nice to have.  In fact I ended up using some Triple sec (any orange liqueur is a great alternative).
3. Harissa can be quite spicy so be sure to try the marinade first and temper it to your own tastes.  Maybe start with half the amount first and adjust from there.
4. Finally, the recipe in the book calls for radicchio in the salad but i have used chicory, any bitter leaf works fine.

And finally, Scott has created this short tutorial video for you.  Enjoy!